There are moments when you don’t need a plane to travel. All it takes is to sit at a table, have a plate set before you, and let the aroma of olive oil, lemon, and warm bread fill the air. In that moment, Belgrade fades into the background, and images of Greece, the sea, and unforgettable dinners take center stage. That’s exactly what happened to me at Meze by Elliniko. Without any grand announcement, without intending to “go anywhere,” I suddenly found myself in Greece.
What sets this restaurant apart is that it doesn’t try to impress you forcefully. It doesn’t tell you what to like, nor does it serve Greece to you as a postcard. Instead, it lets the food speak for itself.
The evening began with meze platters, as it should, without strict structure or rules. The first thing that captivated me was the eggplant, presented in several forms, each with its own role. The creamy, lightly smoked melitzanosalata was the perfect balance between simplicity and depth of flavor. The kind of dish you eat slowly, even though it seems modest at first glance. The roasted eggplant, melitzana psiti, brought that earthy, almost sweet note that only well-prepared vegetables can achieve when given the attention they deserve.
The zucchini arrived in its simplest, and my favorite, form. Thinly sliced and deep-fried, kolokythakia tiganita, crispy on the outside, tender inside, with that irresistible aroma that instantly transports you back to your first evenings in Greek tavernas. This is a dish that needs no explanation or decoration. A pinch of salt, a few drops of lemon, and it’s perfect. You eat them with your fingers—quickly, then slowly, then quickly again—because they are exactly as they should be. Simple, genuine, and endlessly seductive.
Olive oil is everywhere, yet never overpowering. It connects all the plates, giving them continuity and that unmistakable Mediterranean feeling. And then come the cheeses, which deepen the story even further. A standout is the famous Naxos cheese, graviera, slightly sweet, full-flavored, perfect when paired with warm dishes. At one point, it came alongside meat in a modern take on traditional recipes, where salty, milky, and juicy flavors meet effortlessly, without competing with one another.
The meat dishes at Meze by Elliniko aren’t the classic, expected Greek offerings. These are plates that show the kitchen is thoughtful, without over-philosophizing. The meat is tender and rich, served with elements that complement rather than overwhelm. Slowly prepared cuts remind you of home cooking but with a modern twist, as if you’re in a contemporary Athenian taverna that respects tradition but isn’t afraid to push it slightly.
What I particularly loved is that both vegetarian and meat dishes hold equal weight. Nothing feels like filler; everything has its moment and significance. That’s rare, even in restaurants that pride themselves on authenticity.
As the dinner progresses, you realize you’re not just eating food—you’re participating in a ritual. Plates are shared, conversations stretch on, and time loses its sharp edges. This is the Greece you love while traveling, but even more so, the Greece you remember once you return home.
And then comes dessert, for me an essential part of any Greek story: portokalopita. Moist, fragrant, soaked in orange syrup, yet never heavy. It’s the dessert that closes the circle, calms you, and leaves you smiling. In that moment, you realize you don’t need anything else. Everything has already been said.
Meze by Elliniko isn’t just a restaurant you visit to eat. It’s a place that reminds you why you love traveling, why you trust kitchens that honor their roots, and why the most beautiful experiences often happen when you least expect them. Natural, unassuming, and genuine—just like Greece itself.
